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From “Paocai” to “Xinqi” – The Role of Kimchi in Korean Culinary Nationalism

 

 

 

 

Kimchi is one of the most widely known Korean dishes as it invariably accompanies a Korean meal. Traditionally it refers to sliced vegetables which is highly seasoned with pepper, onion and garlic, and fermented in large earthenware jars.

 

 

 

In recent years, the Korean government has been active in promoting this traditional food overseas, and interestingly paying special attention to how Kimchi is called in foreign languages. Therefore, in this research project, I examine the relations between Korean cultural identity and the international promotion of Kimchi, arguing that the promotional strategy is a paradox between globalization and nationalism.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The project begins with the recent controversy surrounding Xinqi, a newly invented Chinese name of Kimchi by the Korean government, and I explore the dynamic behind Korea’s sensitivity over Kimchi’s name in foreign languages. With reference to the concept of culinary nationalism, I argue that the promotion and renaming of Kimchi, is an attempt to counteract the force of globalization. Internally, as more Korean people are shifting away from traditional, made-in-Korea food products, the encouragement of Kimchi consumption then becomes a way to reconstruct the shared cultural identity and ethnic group loyalty. While externally, the Korean government has invested heavily in the campaign of Kimchi globalization to maximize foreigners’ reception of the dish. Yet, ultimately, this globalization effort is still inextricably intertwines with nationalism. This can be illustrated by a range of clips and printed advertisements placed overseas, which explicitly stress the “uniqueness” and “authenticity” of Korean food products, revealing the government’s goal to enhance national image and pride through national cuisine. Lastly, I turn to the response of this paradoxical, national push of food promotion. I argue that the traces of nationalism permeated in the global Korean food promotion, are the reason why foreigners responded unfavourably to the campaign. Especially in countries that have been competing with Korea over cultural ownership, such as P.R. China, the display of Korean nationalism through Kimchi promotion has further added fuel to the cultural war.

 

 

KORE3022 Korean Studies Reserach Project

The University of Hong Kong

 

From “Paocai” to “Xinqi” – The Role of Kimchi in Korean Culinary Nationalism

 

 

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